/chastegen/ FAQ

A collection of some frequently asked questions

This FAQ is mainly targeted at male chastity, but please offer up any experience with female chastity we can add in!

This is a work in progress so feel free to contribute or pose any new questions.

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For any thread-starters, here is a paste template:

/chastegen/ - Chastity General

The thread for posting pictures, experiences, and adventures around chastity devices.
Both male and female chastity welcome. The more images the better!

Previous Thread: >>123456789 [Update with previous thread]

>FAQ
https://rentry.org/chastegenfaq

>Lock Tracker & Guide
https://rentry.org/chastegenlocktracker

>Discord
gg/VztJB5FWe9

>Guide to Nipple Orgasms
(PDF) https://files.catbox.moe/fa55vs.pdf
(Audio) https://files.catbox.moe/uheaeu.zip

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What should I look for in a cage?

Cages vary based on lock type, material, style, open and closed designed, etc. and it is really up to you. Look around at different styles, read below for any pro/cons of styles, and just find something that catches your eye!

Feel free to ask the thread for their experiences as well!

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What are different materials?

Stainless steel, Bio-Resin, 3D Printed Nylon and Silicone are all considered body-safe options and used in name-brand cages.

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What are closed versus open cage designs?

Closed tube cages are as they sound, solid material cages with at most a hole at the end for urination. They offer some sensory deprivation, and with the correct fit are often touted to offer more comfort and an easier time urinating than open cages. With less exposed skin, there is less friction and ability to touch/play with yourself through the cage. One downside is that removal and cleaning needs to be more frequent as there is nowhere for sweat, dead skin, etc. to go. Getting into one is also a little trickier, and more often requires some lubrication to slide snugly into place.

Open cages are more akin to a jail-cell for your member with bars and open sections to allow for ease of cleaning, and aeration. They often are easier to get into without lubrication, but that also makes them slightly easier to get out of too. Because of the open design, it's easy to readjust during the day if your member moves around, so a perfect fitment isn't as important as with a closed cage. An open cage also allows for some better caged play/teasing as you can actually touch parts of yourself while locked still. As a downside, you will be more prone to friction.

Also, of note (and sometime put into their own category) are flat and inverted cages. Too small to really be classified as "Closed" or "Open" these are advanced chastity solutions that basically nullify the presence of your dick. The stereotypical cage is the so called "saltshaker", a "cage" that is only a flat plate where a normal chastity device would start their cages from. Inverted cages go even further by adding length towards the body, further pushing your member into your body. These most likely should not be your first cage, but something to work towards if you like the style. These often act like closed cages in cleaning needs and sensory, but due to nothing really positioning your urethra but instead just mashing your member flat, easy urination is often an issue. Additionally, it is almost a must to wear one with some sort of secondary support to keep the cage against your body.

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What are the different lock types?

Generally, there are two different styles. Padlock, and integrated. Most cages are moving towards integrated, but some (like the CB-6000) still opt for the padlock. A padlock adds some weight to the cage and gives some additional reminder to the fact you are locked-up (a pro or a con) and can be more noticeable through clothing. These usually attach to the cage in some way and are then left free-floating external to the cage body.

Integrated locks are built into the cage body itself. Most use a style similar to the Burg Wachter ME/2 furniture lock, or something similar. They offer a sleeker design and are often styled/hidden with the cage itself for aesthetics. Great for discretion and lighter-weight chastity solutions, but you could argue that you lose some security since the locks themselves can be on the cheaper end. I'll note that integrated locks can easily be made into padlock types with some light conversion, but pad-lock styles cannot be easily made into an integrated style.

Beyond those, there are the new click-to-lock HolyTrainer V5 that claims to offer better stability and security for the same/smaller footprint, and Allen key screw-in locks that is featured in some flat or inverted cage designs.

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How do I size a cage?

Your major measurements are split between those for the cage, and those for the ring. You want the cage to be snuggly fitted while flaccid, so you need to measure your flaccid length and girth. Girth is usually less important on mass-produced cages, but important if you go into the custom space, or if you have a very girthy dick that may become uncomfortable or painful when engorged. A well fitted cage is important for hygiene and comfort, and while too small isn't often an issue, too big can cause misalignment leading to messing yourself while peeing and may lead to the cage slipping off more regularly.

The major measurements for the ring are usual the circumference from the top of your dick, snugly around your balls, and back to find the diameter of ring you need, as well as the ring gap, which is again less important and more something you find out along the way. Too small of a ring or ring gap will lead to you crushing your testicles when you put on the cage in major cases, and in minor cases cause pain when your balls tighten up. Too large of a ring (and especially ring gap) can lead to your balls slipping out, sometimes painfully if it is just big enough for them to slip through if they are "compressed" a little.

For a general sizing guide to figure out your range, I've seen people use the KINK3d pages or the OXYshop ones Both can give you rough measurements, or just generally show how to measure yourself for picking out the size of a cage.

You will probably get it wrong with the first cage or two. It takes a while to find the exact measurements that both fit and fit well on you. This is why it is usually recommended to buy and try several knock-off cages first before investing in a real one.

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What are some good sellers/cages?

• HolyTrainer (Bio-Resin)
• Cherry Keeper (3D-printed Nylon)
• KINK3D (3D-printed Nylon)
• Mature Metal (Metal)
• CB-6000s (Bio-Resin)
• Cellmate (Bio-Resin, remote controlled)
• BirdLocked (Silicone)

And for knockoffs, AliExpress is popular, with sellers CHASTE BIRD, FRRK, Happygo, and Dream Of Her being recommended for decent quality. On Amazon, some anons have recommended FYJENNIC. These knockoffs (especially for non-metal cages) often come with several ring sizes as well, where the name-brand only come with one. This can be better to see what your fit for the cage style is like.

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Do you have any recommendations for a starter cage?

I'd try starting with a knock-off of the KINK3D Cobra. These are usually called some snake-themed name like "Python" or "Mamba". Here is a link to the CHASTE BIRD version (link).

It's a basic-bitch cage with little-to-no frills and cheap(er) knock-offs, so it will give you a feel for what you like or dislike about it, get sizing dialed in, and then go from there looking for a cage that has those features. (e.g. metal/bio-resin instead of 3D printed, special ring shapes, closed/open tubing, etc.) all without breaking the bank.

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How do I actually put on the thing?

You want to be as flaccid as possible going into the cage. Go slowly and stop at each step to calm back down if you start getting erect. A cold shower or getting a quickie in beforehand can definitely help.

The general process is as follows:

1. Start by applying either a moisturizer to your groin, or a bit of water-based lubricant directly to the cage and ring to help things slide together.
2. Take the ring and pull your scrotum and balls into the ring. Rest and wait if you get hard.
3. Pull your member through, get it positioned and centered, then again rest and wait for you to calm down again.
4. Finally put the cage itself on, lock it, and you're good to go!

The above process is just the base recommend. You may find other ways that work better for you (I personally am small and squishy enough that I do cock->scrotum->balls), just find what works to get you in a cage. I cannot stress enough how much some form of lubrication, either moisturizer or a lube itself, can make the process, especially if you have chafing issues with the cage, or if you are using a closed-tube design. It will also help with chafing and pulling issue when you have the cage on itself. Shaving down there can also help to remove bulk and causes of pulling and friction.

If you are having troubles fitting into a tighter cage or having troubles with alignment in a closed-tube design, you can try the "stocking method". Get some stockings (pantyhose) and put it around your flaccid member. Get your bits through the ring, then feed the excess of the stocking through the cage itself, and out of the urethral hole at the end of the cage. Pull the stockings (and therefore your dick) through the cage, getting you in there with less friction and helping to align things. Continue to pull and remove the stockings.

Finally, for lining things up in an open-style cage, you can take a q-tip or use your fingers to prod at your member through the cage to get it to seat properly.

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How do I determine if a cage is a good fit once I have it?

Once you found a cage you like and ordered it, you want to test for any pinches, aches, pains, or bluing of the balls.

Note that some (especially cheaper cages) may have rough weld-marks, or seams from molding that need to be rasped or sanded down before comfortable wear. If it feels fine at first, try wearing it for at most a few hours on your first attempt just to make sure. You want to make sure it feels good flaccid, but also try to force an erection to check for any pulling of skin, pulling of the cage away from the body, and to generally make sure it does not feel painful to get erect. It should be uncomfortable, but not painful. Make sure as well that you are not "pooling" out between the bars too much. This usually happens with cheaper cages with smaller bars, but this can trap fluids and cause painful edemas.

I also try to wear some rougher fabric pants with a zipper while I try it out, like some jeans. You want to make sure that you don't pinch or rub weirdly while standing/walking/sitting/etc. With all of that done, and if it all passes, you can try wearing it for longer periods to see if there are any final issues that come up, that you can pee and clean it as desired, etc.

After all of that, if you still like the cage, congrats! If it was a knock-off, consider buying the name-brand!

As for a checklist:

• Are there any sharp seems or welds I have to take care of first?
• Does the cage feel and fit good while I am flaccid?
• If I force an erection, does the cage become painful?
  • Is it pulling any skin/my balls too tight?
  • Does it pull the cage away from my body too much?
  • Does my member swell between the bars?
• Do I pinch or rub badly in everyday clothes and positions?

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Do I need to know anything more if I have a foreskin?

Foreskin can become an issue while in chastity in two major ways:

1. Peeing. As your member moves around during the day, your foreskin may slide forward to cover the opening of either your urethra or the cage itself.
2. Spillage. You foreskin may also slip past the tip of the cage, protruding out of the end of the chastity cage. Being sensitive skin, it can be prone to chafing pinching, and to general discomfort as the pressure of your clothes will be concentrated into a small area.

Everyone is different, so the actual how to mitigate some of these issues is varied.

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How can I step up the fun while in chastity?

Chastity works in harmony with several other fetishes. Want to give some sexual control to another person? Try a keyholder. Need a new way to masturbate while locked? Try some anal, nipple play, etc. Want to keep to just chastity? Try some more intense play with either urethral plugs, sounding, or try out a smaller cage, even going into the inverted cage realm!

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How do I find a keyholder?

If you already have a partner, try to introduce them to your chastity and ask if they want to be your holder. You can either give them the key itself or have them lock they keys in a (portable) lockbox so that access can be granted remotely.

Without a partner, there a number of different services that link chastity-wearers to key-holders, such as EmlaLock.com, ChastityLocked.com, TeamLocked.com, and the thread favorite chaster.app. Chaster also allows for crowdsourcing lock-timers for those who want some fun but not the baggage that comes with a keyholder. Self-keyholding is also an option, with timed lockboxes being available on the market. There is also often a chastity thread on /soc/ you can look for a keyholder in.

While remote keyholding is something to work out with your holder, it usually involves mailing a key/padlock between participants, or some form of lockable safe the key can be placed in. Another option that is starting to develop is remote-locking chastity cages themselves, such as the CellMate from Qiui.

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What do I need to know for long-term or 24/7 wear?

Long-term wear can be different for everyone. It can just be daywear, full-time with exceptions (such as cleaning, exercise, and travel) or true 24/7 wear. Each progressively adds more logistical challenges to dealing with chastity without hurting yourself or decreasing your quality of life. Traveling, hygiene, maintenance, your activities, and hobbies, and more can all be facets you want to look at before going in. Basically, various questions to consider include,

• Can you wash while in the cage, or are you fine taking the cage off for cleaning?
• Is the cage comfortable for wearing all day?
• Is the cage comfortable for wearing at night?
• What are you going to do if you have to go through a pat-down or body-scanner?
• What are you going to do with the key?
• Can you work out/get active in your cage?
• Is your cage robust enough, or will it break with prolonged wear?

You are going to want to go through different trial periods to try to work out all the kinks with prolonged wear and your lifestyle.

1. Figuring out what you are going to do for hygiene is a big factor, and most people pick stainless steel, open-style cages for this reason as it allows the most cleanliness, breath ability, and allows you to inspect your member for any adverse health effects of chastity (edema, bruising, etc.) while still having the cage on.
2. Getting a cage that fits you perfectly is also big. Size-training and 24/7 wear can go hand-in-hand but are often opposed to each other due to long-term comfort concerns.
3. Make sure that you can do all that you do in the cage. Work-out? Make sure it is comfortable running, lifting, swimming, etc. Travel a lot? Make sure your cage can get through a metal detector or work out a way around it. Sleeping, lounging, basically anything you do in your everyday features a unique position for you test chastity in.

Start finding these out in smaller bursts, and always have a key (or sympathetic keyholder) available for bailouts. Work up from daywear to full-time for a few days, to a week, and eventually get it up to 24/7 wear. Even the best 24/7 wearers still need to take it off once in a blue moon for emergency hygiene concerns, sex, whatever, so don't throw yourself under the bus if 24/7 is your goal but you still find needs to take your cage off.

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What are the logistics of traveling in chastity?

This is a process to work out with your holder (or yourself) and functions almost like remote keyholding. Portable key boxes exist that can be used to keep the keys with you, but to keep them locked with only your holder knowing the code.

Going through security is another issue, and while a plastic/silicone cage with a plastic lock may work, they may still detect "anomalies" in the groin region with some of the newer machines and need an extra pat-down. Best to take it off before going through, and putting it back on after, if able.

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My cage keeps pulling away when I get hard, what do?

The easy solution is to get some sort of strap around your waist, such as a shoestring, twine, ribbon, or a purpose-made strap like this one that can attach to the cage and help keep it pressed against your body. Note that because it does add mass on the ring, you may find a need to size-up your ring if it is too tight with it on.

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I have a metal cage that doesn't stay on my body, what do?

Again, like with a cage that pulls away, a strap, shoelace, ribbon, etc. can be useful to keep it next to your body.

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How do I clean while in chastity?

Taking care of hygiene (cleaning, shaving, etc.) can be taken care of either with the cage on, or you and your holder can use that time as a "rest" period for your member, and do it uncaged (and possibly supervised).

For locked cleanings, there are different methods with degrees of success depending on your cage design. For closed cages, getting a spray bottle with some soapy water and spraying it into the tube can work well, and with open cages you can clean almost normally, with a popular method just being to get a handful of suds and "smoosh" it into your cage, like you are trying to make a suction between your hands.

Drying off is best done with something like a hair dryer, especially for closed cage designs, with a little baby powder thrown in for some light relubrication and to absorb any remaining moisture.

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How do I get funky smells out of my cage?

I've found that soaking it in a diluted solution of vinegar, dish soap, and hot water works really well. Let it steep for 30 minutes or so, then dry and the smell should be more diluted or gone entirely. Repeat until satisfied.

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I am worried about someone in my house seeing my deliveries, what do?

Most places ship discretely these days, unlike ordering sex toys online in the days of yore. This usually means a nondescript brown box, and I've seen several that have return addresses that do not directly link back to the website of purchase (say the name is a more legit-sounding LLC, or a return facility for AliExpress orders). The most conspicuous box I've gotten is from Cherry Keeper, where "Shapeways" is on the packaging itself. That could just be downplayed as any 3D-print you ordered though, not an actual company.

While I am not familiar with other countries, if you cannot stand the thought of getting the package handed to a roommate/family member, etc. still, your options are buying a P.O. box, or asking whatever service is delivering to you to hold your mail at a facility for in-person pick-up.

• For USPS: If you have a tracking number, within the USPS track and manage site you can request a hold for pick-up. In general, if you know the range that a package will be coming in, you can also freeze mail delivery for that range, where EVERYTHING addressed to you will be stored at a post office location until you can pick up.
• For UPS: With a tracking number, you can change the delivery options to be held in store.
• For FedEx: Again, with a tracking number, you can request the delivery to be held at a location for pick-up
• For Amazon Packages: If you have an Amazon Locker in your area, you can have your package shipped there instead. Note that you can receive Amazon packages at these locations, so they are not a free replacement to a P.O. box.

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Some cages come with weird things like ball-hooks or multi-stacked rings, what do these do?

Most extras to a cage are a matter of preference, and the execution can vary wildly.

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But what about Prince Albert piercings?

Prince Albert (PA) piercings are gauged piercings that go from your urethra through the bottom of your glans, in front of your frenulum. In chastity, generally all locks are escapable by your dick, as you can just manage to pull the cage forward, and your member up and out. PAs can help with that.

By integrating a PA piercing with a cage, say through a PA Chastity lock looped through the opening at the tip of the cage, and under the cage in some open and closed style cages, you effectively make the chastity inescapable. You can no longer pull it forward and off you without also tearing your member.

While I am not experienced with a PA piercing, here is some words from another Anon pulled from threads:

You'll likely get pierced between 12ga and 8ga. Just kinda depends on the place and what you ask for. I got pierced at 12ga, and then immediately stretched to 10ga.

I don't recommend you try to integrate the PA into chastity until you are at least at 8ga (6ga is better tho)

Basically, like any piercing, they start you smaller in the shop as to decrease the healing time (less to heal), then once healed, you can begin gauging it up. The larger gauges are needed both for security in the cage and for safety of yourself. With a larger gauge, there is less of a risk to accidentally pull it out and ripping skin if your dick performs some weird maneuvers inside the cage.

As for recovery,

Everyone's body is different, but heal times are anywhere from a month to a few months

I got mine [4 months ago] and I am very close to being able to get the 6ga

So, not too bad, but that is time that you can't really go caged, or at least caged with the PA piercing.

Finally, for cages, there are purpose-built cages with PA locks already integrated, both in traditional styles and some that do not rely on a main ring (ball-less chastity). For non-purpose-built cages, if it has a urination hole and a hole under the cage, you can probably integrate a PA piercing into the cage. Kink3D Cobra is a popular option for this.

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Can/will my dick shrink in chastity?

There is mixed literature on if you can permanently shrink your dick or not, but at the layman's level, the phrase "use it or lose it" summarizes most of the expert and anecdotal testimony.

An erection is formed when blood is forced into the penis and causes the spongy Corpora Cavernosa tissue to flood with blood. The more of that tissue you have, the longer/girthier your member is when erect. If this tissue is relatively porous, then the blood does most of the heavy lifting and you are a grower. If it is much denser, then you are more likely a shower, as when the blood vacates the tissue, it does not have as much space to deflate.

So, for your member to shrink you would either need to damage the tissues, or find some way to atrophy them, so they do not hold as much blood while erect and have a smaller appearance when flaccid. Being like any other tissue in the body, if it is not actively being used it will slowly atrophy (a noticeable analogue would be your muscles) as it is just wasteful tissue taking up energy that the body can use elsewhere.

Therefore, to minimize shrinking then, you want your member to be able to exercise as fully as possible. That means getting a properly fitting cage and wearing said cage as little as possible. If you do go into longer-term chastity, best to keep it off at nights when you get most of your spontaneous erections, and to not fuck with downsizing cages.

So, you actually do want to shrink your dick, fun stuff. As mentioned above, the main ways to do this is through affecting the erectile tissue through damage (Dangerous and not recommended) or finding some way to cause it to atrophy. Thus, if the goal is to shrink your member, you want to stop or hinder erectile function for as long as possible and for as best as possible. There are three main steps to this, being Reducing Erection Strength, Stopping Spontaneous Erections, and Promoting Additional Shrinkage.

Reducing Erection Strength
Your first step is to in general reduce the strength of erections you are getting. Since your here, enjoying chastity, congrats! You've already got this down. If you've been in a cage long enough, you may have already noticed that once freed your erections are weaker and your flaccid member may be slightly smaller or more pliable. This is generally how you begin the cage downsizing journey:

1. Start out in a well sized cage
2. Begin noticing you don't fill it out as much while flaccid/ don't strain as much while erect anymore
3. Downsize!
4. Repeat
   It's a simple cycle that slowly causes the tissues to atrophy as they can no longer fully engorge with blood during erections.

Additional help towards this process of reducing erection strength can come from adding straps to your cage or wearing tighter clothes. Straps can help keep the cage against your body, leading to more strain and less room for erectile tissue to grow into. Similarly, tighter clothing (especially in the underwear department) can decrease the ability for your member to get erect. Additionally, as it is separate from the cage itself, tight underwear is great for helping to maintain tissue atrophy and decrease erectile strength and frequency even when you have your cage off.

Stopping Spontaneous Erections

After taking steps towards making the erections you do have less powerful and therefore contributing to some level of tissue atrophy, the next step would be to try to get rid of spontaneous erections as much as possible. This includes your nighttime erections, morning wood, random daytime chodes, whatever. The basic methods to do this is through inducing Hypogonadism (reduction/cessation of sexual hormone production) or through some form of intentional Erectile Dysfunction.

Induced Hypogonadism
The most commonly seen (and intentionally done) form of this is with HRT which combines antiandrogens (testosterone blockers) along with estrogenic chemicals that do a double whammy on sexual function. You'll still be able to force erections, but spontaneous erections will be reduced to non-existence depending on dosages. You do have the downsides of feminization with this, so please, do not just do it for the fun. I try not to condone this for anyone outside of those truly dysphoric, but you do you. As a lesser option, you can do only the antiandrogen, either at a total suppressive dosage (not recommended due to side effects of a lack of either sex hormone), or at a partially suppressive dosage to just reduce the total and free testosterone in the body. I will not be discussing what dosages are, or what drug purchasing options you have available in depth here, that is more the job of the DIY group over on /lgbt/.

Another more recently discussed option is through topical & exogenous glucocorticoids (paper) such as hydrocortisone. Corticosteroid creams can often be purchased over-the-counter and apparently can be applied topically to the genitals to induce hypogonadism. The paper linked is a study on orally administered dexamethasone at what is considered a higher end dosage. These effects are unlikely to be totally achievable with an over-the-counter topical medication, but it is a possible option if you are really certain you want to go down this route. As for some negatives, again, this appears to have some feminization effects linked to it, with the study finding increased estrogen and decreased testosterone levels in those that took those higher dosages. Prolonged use of corticosteroid and glucocorticoids may also cause some effects related to Cushing’s syndrome.

Compared to forcing ED on yourself, with these methods you have a much higher chance of turning off spontaneous erections, while still having hope for having controlled erections so you can perform when needed/are aroused.

Giving yourself ED
The other option outside of medication is through just giving yourself ED. There are a slew of problems with this as well, especially if you want to still have a functioning dick when you need it. But usually, the controllable causes of ED are obesity, smoking, and stress. While the hypogonadism path discussed above work on a hormonal level and therefore affect you at all times, ED is much more random, and you may still have night-time and random erections, just not be able to perform when needed instead.

Finally, the last way (that I don't recommend) is through temporary or permanent nerve and tissue damage. Through careful application of estimming or banding, you can technically induce temporary neuropraxia of the dorsal nerves, which will recover after a couple months. That said, continued or extreme use of estimming, banding, physical harm, etc., can and will permanently kill your nerves and leave you forever numb down there. Same with causing damage and scaring to your erectile tissue, you will just not be able to get it up at all. Without either the ability to get it up, or the sensation to feel aroused down there, it will cut down on spontaneous erections, though.

Promoting Additional Shrinkage
Finally, to aid in the above process there are some ways to promote additional shrinkage. The first is with extreme forms of chastity, such as flat and negative cages. Basically, if you give no room for the tissue to expand into, it will accelerate the atrophying process from disuse. This also goes with 24/7 wear of chastity. If you don't give it time to relax and engorge outside of confinement, you will slow down any reversal of atrophied tissue.

Lastly, there are (temporary) measures for appearing and behaving smaller: Vasoconstrictors. These do as they say, they constrict your blood vessels to make them appear smaller temporarily. The most well know of them is Phenylephrine, the active ingredient in hemorrhoidal creams such as (some formulations) of Preparation H. Corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone are also vasoconstrictors, and many "facial tightening" creams also feature other vasoconstrictive chemicals. All of these have slightly different effects and side effects, but it is generally thought that Phenylephrine-based products will give the most bang-for-the-buck for vasoconstriction on the genitals.

As mentioned, vasoconstrictors are temporary, good for short-term shrinkage for the 'gram, or to fit into a smaller cage, but they are not a permanent help towards causing atrophy and therefore true shrinkage.

Permanence of Shrinkage
The permanence of the effects of any of these techniques is hotly debated, with experts saying there is no permanent effect and anecdotal accounts stating permanence. Looking through studies, and articles, dick shrinkage is considered a negative outcome, so these studies are usually studying short-term side effects, not long studies looking at continued effects from extended usage of whatever is causing the side effects.

From both that and anecdotal evidence, I'd say roughly, short-term atrophy (that lasting under a year at the high end) is fully recoverable, but you would be starting to push it at the end of that range. Longer term atrophy and non-use may (or will depending on opinions) cause lasting shrinkage.

Running Theory on Shrinkage Cocktail:
I'll leave this "Broscience" section with what I think would be a good shrinkage regimen based off the research I've done:

• Chastity, and especially training towards small & inverted cages
  • Straps towards keeping it tight against the body
• Tight fitting underwear, especially at night & when out of the cage
• Topical application of a strong vasoconstrictor (such as Preparation H)
• Some form of induced hypogonadism
  • HRT for additional feminization & suppressant effects
  • Some form of Exogenous Glucocorticoids (hydrocortisone cream, oral dexamethasone) otherwise

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