Official /arg/ pastebin v1.2
Changelog / FAQ / General rambling
- 4/22/2020 v1.0: https://pastebin.com/d7f55Bii
Original /arg/ pastebin posted. It's still perfect. - 6/29/2020 v1.1: https://pastebin.com/LDXZwUaf
Updated pastebin. Never posted to /arg/ because it wasn't funny. - 12/1/2023 v1.2.0
Minor updates and clarifications on specifics from version 1.1 - 12/2/2023 v1.2.1
Fixed some spelling errors, added more external resources, mostly technical manuals and search engines. - 12/2/2023 v1.2.2
Added guide: How to set up a basic AR-15 or How to pimp your M&P Sport. Added link to magazine cleaning brush. Very important. - 12/2/2023 v1.2.3
Added guide: SBRs, SPRs, and Carbines - 12/3/2023 v1.2.4
Added M300 light to recommended lights per anon feedback. Added more information and recommendation for A5 buffers and ambi lowers. Added gas port size spreadsheet to external resources. - 12/3/2023 v1.2.5:
Added guide: How and Where to Add Accessories. Special thanks to everyone whose pictures are used. Used some of Gookfoots pictures as examples of how to do things right. Since they're available on reddit I'm considering them public. Bitch at me in the thread if you want them removed. Special thanks to reddit for contributing images on how to do things wrong, I guess they're good for something afterall. Added intro to long range shooting infographic. Added guide: What to include in your range bag. - 12/5/2023 v1.2.6:
Added SOTAR to the BCG section of the guide and external resources. Cleaned up other youtube video recommendations. Changed over A2 task of the month links to catbox images now that it's behaving again. - 1/23/2024 v1.2.7: you are here
Corrected misinformation on streamlight protac 2.0 railmount light. Thanks to anon for pointing it out
Why the AR-15?
The AR-15 is widely used because it is a lightweight, reliable, and effective rifle. It is also cost effective, with low end models costing less than $400, and even top of the line rifles topping out at around $3000. Which is fairly expensive for an AR-15, but nothing compared to what bolt action rifles, high end shotguns, and even boutique AKs can run. This makes it a viable choice for anyone and everyone with the means to own one.
DI vs Piston?
In general, piston AR-15s are not covered by this guide. There are many varieties of piston AR-15, and few at all have any marked superiority to the standard AR-15. They generally have niche usefulness at the cost of added weight, greater felt recoil, negligible or nonexistent improvement to reliability, and niche expanded capabilities. The one standout feature of piston guns is their tendency to not gas out the user in suppressed firing, though this is not universally the case.
Is the AR-15 reliable?
Yes. Everything you have heard about the AR-15 failing in Vietnam is largely due to issues that were quickly remedied in training, compounded by use of an unsuitable gunpowder in 5.56 ammunition at the time. The AR-15 is notably more effective than almost any other rifle at handling muddy, dirty, and dusty conditions.
Is 5.56 an effective cartridge?
Yes. Put simply 5.56 rapidly disrupts on impact with a person, either yawing, fragmenting, or deforming, and dumps tremendous amounts of energy. Larger and slower bullets are slower to achieve this energy transfer, as they generally remain stable after impact. This can lead to 5.56 causing greater trauma than larger and even more energetic rounds.
Is it difficult to build an AR-15
If you can build a PC you can build an AR-15. If you can change a tire you're overqualified.
Do I need tools to put a complete upper on a complete lower?
No.
Is it worth it to build an 80% lower?
From a purely financial sense, no. It will cost more than buying a basic stripped lower generally and is nowhere near as beginner friendly. Try it as a fun project once you already have a working AR.
Are proprietary parts such as those used in KAC/LMT worth it
Overall, for most people, no. Most people will not see the benefit of these upgrades. As an enthusiast or serious user they still provide value and are objectively beneficial, but at highly inflated cost. You can shoot thousands of rounds through a standard AR-15 without experiencing a single malfunction or failure. These push the rifle even further. If that appeals to you, buy them.
Your formatting sucks and this is unreadable
I never type sober so please be understanding. I also had the entire thing formatted to not look like ass on pastebin, but it got rejected probably because they hate guns or I said a no no word somewhere.
Why are you even making this guide
I had it mostly typed up around the time I made the original /arg/ pastebin but never posted it. I finally finished it after seeing vicious work on an infographic and thought it was a waste to leave my autism go unfinished three years later.
You are biased and a shill
Yes.
Infographics and /arg/ produced information
Under construction
tl;dr /arg/ beginner guide by vicious v1.3
https://files.catbox.moe/by5lk2.jpg
sopmod anon's guide to building an AR
https://files.catbox.moe/0r42yv.png
Anon's introduction to longrange shooting
https://files.catbox.moe/ixrfei.jpg
AR-15 optics flowchart
https://files.catbox.moe/nm07x7.png
Utility to check if your rifle sucks or not; ideally use before even building it
https://files.catbox.moe/yz9504.jpg
Firearms autism chart, turn back before it's too late
https://files.catbox.moe/fcf6or.jpg
A2 Task of the Month for /arg/
catbox is being bad, for now linking to archived posts
February 2022
https://files.catbox.moe/uses09.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/wd5e42.png
March 2022
https://files.catbox.moe/onjfbg.jpg
April 2022
https://files.catbox.moe/ven09j.jpg
January 2023
https://files.catbox.moe/88f66u.jpg
https://ridgelinedefense.com/bipod-paracord-hack/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21Azmj0rJQ0
February 2023
https://files.catbox.moe/sobshm.jpg
March 2023
https://files.catbox.moe/0iive9.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaESPfBd0PI
- If I missed any let me know in the thread
Beginner Guides
How to set up a basic AR-15 or How to pimp your M&P Sport
Basic ARs with 16" barrels and plastic furniture are some of the most common and accessible entry level rifles. While they're not highly recommended by this guide, if it's what you already have you should get the most out of it. All this information applies to the M&P Sport, Ruger AR556, basic PSA freedom rifles with plastic handguards, and so on. It is often better to improve what you have rather than start over with a bare higher quality rifle. All your accessories can be transferred to a new rifle later. A better barrel can't help you see in the dark, but a good weapon light can.
First, take your rifle to the range and shoot it
Function test your gun and see if it works properly. Nothing applies until you've done this. Quality control problems happen. A part can be machined slightly out of spec, your gas block might be loose, the list goes on and on. There is no substitute for firing your rifle and confirming it works.
1. Required Accessories
1. Sling - start with MS1 upgrade to BFG Vickers padded later, the money is better spent elsewhere right now. Number one thing is to have the sling.
2. Light - probably start with Streamlight HLX Protac Railmount. Surefire M640DF if you can afford it.
3. Optic - probably start at holosun 403r. Aimpoint Pro if you can afford it.
2. Quality of Life Improvements
1. Stock - Pick one you like from the recommended stocks section can't go wrong with the CTR
2. Handguard - Upgrade to Magpul MOE mlok
3. Optic mount - Replace your Holosun mount with a more reliable alternative. Get a lighter mount than the stock Aimpoint Pro mount if you went that route
3. Tertiary improvements, do this after you've shot your rifle enough to be familiar with it
1. Trigger - Time to get an MBT-2s
2. Iron sights. Your rifle probably came with some basic plastic MBUS. Time to upgrade to a steel MBUS Pro.
3. Your rifle probably came with a carbine buffer, it's time for an H1 or H2
4. Upgrade whatever you cheaped out on in terms of accessories. Make the jump to Aimpoint and Surefire if you're using Holosun and Streamlight.
5. Ambidextrous Safety, Charging handle, other minor upgrades. Fix whatever is annoying you.
6. If you're going to stick with your rifle and not upgrade for a while, consider getting a freefloated rail. DD Omega is drop in compatible without removing the delta ring. Centurion CM4 is compatible with the standard barrel nut, but you will need to remove the delta ring. These can expand the utility of your rifle without extensive modification.
What shouldn't be replaced on a basic carbine rifle?
Bolt carrier group
If it works, just leave it. Your money is better spent elsewhere.
Barrel
If it works, just leave it. Your money is better spent elsewhere.
Buffer tube
Some people suggest an A5 buffer tube for everything, it's really not worth it on a basic rifle.
Gas Block
Some people claim adjustable gas blocks are the only way to go, but your money is better spent elsewhere.
Receivers
Tired of staring at the M&P Logo? Don't waste time swapping just your lower for a gucci rollmark. Make sure you've budgeted for an upper as well.
My barrel isn't chrome lined or cold hammer forged, my bolt carrier group is semi-auto and nitrided, and my rail isn't free floated-all of this is bad according to the guide. Shouldn't I just buy a new gun?
Maybe, if you have the budget to buy the new rifle and accessories, you can do that. But you would learn a lot more and know what you really want out of a gun if you put a few thousand rounds through your basic rifle first. If you already have it, you might as well.
How do I attach a light to my rifle
If you have a Magpul MOE mlok rail, you can mount directly to the handguard with an Mlok light mount. Arisaka is recommended. If you have a Surefire M640DF, the light comes with both mlok and picatinny mounts, no need to buy one aftermarket. Alternatively or if you're sticking with plastic handguards, you can use a fixed front sight picatinny mount from Midwest Industries or GG&G.
Why not a KAC RAS rail
Gone are the days of cheap widely available surplus M4 rails. If you find one cheap absolutely throw it on, but if you spend $300 on a non-freefloat rail to accessorize your M&P, you did it wrong. It's not an M4 and throwing the RAS on won't make it one.
How and Where to Add Accessories: How not to look like a jackass with a bridged optic in a backwards scout mount
Having your optic, sling, and light installed securely and properly is just as important as owning them in the first place. Your optic only works if it's installed correctly so it can hold zero, your light only does you good if you can use it, and your sling is useless if it's so uncomfortable you'd rather not wear it.
Red Dots
Install the optic as far forward on the upper receiver as possible, without bridging onto the rail.
GOOD:
https://files.catbox.moe/ajws6m.jpg
Mount is entirely on the upper receiver and not contacting the rail.
BAD:
https://files.catbox.moe/ppu5ey.jpg
Mount is nearly entirely on the rail.
Why can't the red dot be on the rail?
Your rail flexes and moves every time you touch it, especially if it is braced against an object for stabilization. This will in turn put pressure on the mount, and can affect your zero.
Why mount the red dot at the front of the receiver? The back is closer?
With the red dot farther forward, the housing takes up less of your field of view, giving better situational awareness.
Prisms
Due to having shorter lower eye relief, the optic should generally be as far back as possible. Set your stock to the position that is comfortable for you, then check to make sure you can comfortably use the optic. If desired, you can remove the rear iron sight and place it in front of the optic to push it even further back. This is most critical with ACOGs. With Elcans or the PA prism, you have longer eye relief.
GOOD:
https://files.catbox.moe/v819n2.jpg
Optic is directly in front of iron sights per user preference
https://files.catbox.moe/ql2sbu.png
Optic is all the way back per user preference
BAD:
https://files.catbox.moe/m2sd9z.jpg
Optic is too far forward, borderline unusable.
LPVOs/MPVOs
Due to having varying eye relief, set up will be based on user preference. If using a scout mount, ensure it is not backwards or you'll look stupid. As with any optic, ensure the mount is not bridged onto the handguard. Test the optic at all magnification ranges, prone, crouched, and standing, and ensure it remains comfortable to use with your stock set to the correct length.
GOOD:
https://files.catbox.moe/yk470y.jpg
Optic is entirely on the receiver and mount is facing the correct direction
BAD:
https://files.catbox.moe/6o0s2z.PNG
Mount is backwards. Don't be like him.
https://files.catbox.moe/v0yl30.jpg
Mount is backwards. Optic is way too far back to be comfortable, potentially unusable.
https://files.catbox.moe/r4our3.jpg
Mount is bridged onto handguard. Optic is very far forward, likely uncomfortable and unusable at higher magnification.
Lights
The most important thing is that the light can actually be used. Mount the light where you can reach it for activation. Ensure it is not interfering with normal use of the rifle. Use a pressure pad if placing the light in a position where you cannot comfortably reach the tailcap. When using a pressure pad it is important to manage any loose cable so it cannot snag or become unplugged. Using zipties, ranger bands, or clips such as the LaRue index clips is recommended. Ensure the light is far enough forward that it is not just illuminating your rail and casting a massive shadow. Simply turn the light on and see if it's going to be usable.
GOOD
https://files.catbox.moe/yk470y.jpg
Light is in good position on rail, excess cable is secured with zip tie.
BAD
https://files.catbox.moe/3fi5q6.jpg
Light is in good position, cable is completely loose and a major snag hazard. Pressure pad is in a completely useless position.
can't I just use tape?
Tape works as a very temporary solution. When shooting it will heat up, the adhesive will melt, and the tape will fall right off.
what about this $30 mlok cable management thing?
Go for it if you want, it will probably look cleaner. But understand you're buying a glorified zip tie.
Slings
The sling should be secured to the stock and the front of the handguard, as far forward as possible. This allows the sling to provide support while shooting. If shooting right handed, when using QD swivels the sling should secure to the right (ejection port side) of the stock, and the left side of the rail. If you shoot left handed, the setup is reversed. As with other ergonomic suggestions, understand everybody is different and you may have to change things up to make it work for you. Wear your rifle slung and adjust it to make it work for you.
VIDEO GUIDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMJclRDkML0
GOOD
https://files.catbox.moe/yk470y.jpg
Sling is configured properly for a right handed shooter.
https://files.catbox.moe/ttov88.jpg
Sling is configured properly for shooting left handed.
BAD
https://files.catbox.moe/9z0ymi.PNG
The nutcracker. Walking or especially running with this sling will immediately lead to being slapped in the balls by your own gun.
https://files.catbox.moe/7pm42b.PNG
What are you even doing.
As with anything, remember to get out and use your rifle. Simply shooting it will teach you what works and doesn't, but setting things up properly in the first place will let you avoid a lot of learning the hard way.
What to include in your range bag
There is nothing worse than getting to the range and finding out something went wrong, and you can't fix it. Keeping some tools on hand will help reduce the chance of this happening to you.
Electronic hearing protection
There is nothing wrong with the basic Howard Leights. Grab these and some gel cups to start.
Clearing rod
Hopefully you never need it, but if you happen to get a stuck case your day is ruined unless you have a clearing rod. Rapid rod is a useful foldable clearing rod.
Safety glasses
You only get two eyes and you need both of them.
Extra hearing protection
Someone always forgets theirs. Don't let it be you. Even if it's just a fistful of foam earplugs shoved in a pouch, have something available.
Multitool
Always a good idea. Modern leathermans with bit drivers are extra useful.
Bit driver, hex/allen key sets
Especially if you do not have a QD mount, be sure to keep a tool to remove your optic. Can also tighten any accessories that loosen.
Oil/lube
You never know when you'll need it. A CLP like G96 is a good call
Duct tape
Don't leave home without it. If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
lens pen
You spent good money on your optic, there's no reason to screw it up. Use this to clean it properly.
Batteries
Keep some for your electronic hearing protection, light, and optic.
Basic IFAK - LEARN TO USE IT
In the worst case scenario, this can be the difference between life and death. Everyone who has been shooting around other people long enough has seen something stupid happen. The North American Rescue IPOK is compact and contains a tourniquet, gloves, gauze, and a trauma dressing. Add shears and you're good to go.
staple gun
If you're shooting paper this is an absolute necessity.
Binoculars
Great to have available when shooting but not a strict necessity. For a good compact option look for surplus M24 binoculars.
complete spare BCG
Especially if you only have one AR-15. A BCG is a wear item at the end of the day. Pick up an extra microbest for $100 when they're on sale. If you want to save some money, grab just the bolt.
gloves
Guns get hot. Just keep some spare mechanix gloves, they'll do the job.
SBRs, SPRs, and Carbines
Carbines
What is a carbine?
For the purposes of this guide, carbine refers to AR-15s chambered for 5.56 with 16" barrels or 14.5" barrels with pinned and welded muzzle devices.
Why are you recommending carbines?
Carbines are the perfect introduction point for beginners, and are a good all around jack of all trades AR. You can shoot effectively from 0-500m with a properly set up carbine, which is perfect for most people. They are light and relatively compact and handy rifles.
Why would I want anything else?
Thanks to being a general purpose rifle, the carbine is not inherently specialized to any specific range or task. Guns with shorter barrels can be more convenient to transport, and are less awkward to use in tight spaces or with suppressors. Guns with longer barrels are more capable at long range and will have greater muzzle energy.
SBRs
What is an SBR
An SBR is a short barreled rifle. They are regulated more heavily than other rifles. In order to comply with the ATF's regulations, you must pay for a tax stamp and register the SBR. There are some additional regulations to transporting an SBR, and its use might be more highly scrutinized. You must also have some information engraved on the receiver of the SBR. For these reasons I don't recommend SBRs as a first or only AR. Get one after you know what you're doing, or when you want to buy a suppressor.
If there is so much regulation and you have to pay more, why get an SBR
They are shorter than standard AR-15s, which makes them light and convenient. Because of the shortened length they also are suggested when using a suppressor. Longer rifles can be unwieldy when you tack even more length and weight on by adding the suppressor.
If I want to build or buy a SBR, what parts should I get?
Most of the recommended uppers come in short barrel sizes. Top picks would be the KAC SR-15 11.5", Daniel Defense mk18 (10.3") available from Brownells just like the Block II upper, or the BCM BFH ELW MCMR upper with 11.5" barrel. It is generally recommended to build your own SBR rather than buy one, as the form to manufacture your own is processed faster than the form you submit to purchase an already made SBR.
Does having a short barrel make SBRs less accurate?
Not really, no. Longer barrels don't actually make guns more accurate, as long as the bullet is properly stabilized. What longer barrels do is provide more velocity. This means SBRs have shorter effective range, but are still powerful enough to be effective in most circumstances.
How do I actually get a tax stamp, what is the process like?
The simplest way is to visit a silencershop kiosk at a gunstore near you, and submit the form there. They've streamlined the process so you don't have to mail in fingerprint cards or worry about screwing things up.
https://www.silencershop.com/blog/post/silencer-shop-kiosk
What about the engraving?
You can do it yourself, but it is probably easier to send it out for engraving.
https://www.capitolarmory.com/sbr-sbs-nfa-firearm-laser-engraving-form1.html
What about AR pistols?
They don't look as cool as SBRs, and are under threat thanks to the ATF's attacks on pistol braces. Without a brace, AR pistols are next to useless. Currently at time of writing a US district court has ruled the ATF's rule restricting/banning the use of braces is unlawful. However the ATF is likely to appeal the decision and continue to battle in court. If you want to build a pistol, do your own research, come to your own conclusions.
SPRs
What is an SPR
SPR stands for Special Purpose Rifle. It was a specific accurized rifle that was fielded by the US military. For the purpose of this guide however, I am using the term to also refer to any precision oriented AR-15 that is specialized for longer range shooting.
Why use an SPR
SPRs extend the effective range of the AR-15 to its limits. With longer barrels they can achieve greater results even at ranges you could reach with any carbine. Generally it will use higher magnification optics, a bipod, and a stainless barrel.
If it's more effective and has longer range, why isn't every AR an SPR?
A longer barrel means more weight and bulk, as do the higher powered optics and other accessories such as bipods you would want for an SPR. Simply, SPRs suck to use at close range, which is the range you'd be shooting at if defending yourself.
If I want to build an SPR what should I get?
For a traditional Mk12 mod0, PRI makes complete uppers. You can also piece together your own using a milspec upper receiver, bolt, White Oak SPR barrel, and a PRI carbon fiber rail. If you want the newer Mk12 mod1, nobody currently produces a complete upper and you'll have to track down the parts individually. Good luck. If you just want an accurate longer range capable AR, slap an optic with magnification you're comfortable with on any AR ideally with a freefloat rail and a barrel suitable for the range you need to reach. Any of the stainless barrels in the recommended barrel section would be a good place to start.
Complete example rifles/recommended setups with rough pricing
POVERTY
- Blem PSA Freedom rifle kit 16" - $330
- Blem PSA lower - $50
Total for rifle = $380
- Holosun 403r red dot - $150
- Mbus set sights - $65
- Streamlight Protac HLX Railmount - $125
- Front sight post Light mount - $34
- MS1 Sling - $35
Total Complete = $789
LOW TIER
- PSA CHF 16" Carbine rifle kit - $530
- Blem PSA lower - $50
Total for rifle = $580
- Holosun 403r red dot - $150
- Mbus set sights - $65
- Streamlight Protac HLX Railmount light - $125
- Front sight post Light mount - $34
- MS1 Sling - $35
Total Complete = $989
MID TIER PLEASE START HERE AT A MINIMUM
MLOK option:
- BCM 16" BFH ELW MCMR Mid Length gas upper, free included A2 flash hider - $780
- BCG - FREE! (at time of writing)
- Milspec Charging Handle - $15
- Complete PSA lower with CTR stock - $170
Total for Rifle = $965
- MBUS Pro set sights - $180
- Surefire M640DF light - $240
- Aimpoint PRO red dot - $400
- BFG Vickers Sling - $70
- 2x Magpul QD swivels for sling - $30
Total Complete = $1885
Quadrail option:
- DD M4a1 SOCOM upper from Brownells - $720
- Surefire SF3P flash hider - $150
- Microbest Phosphate BCG - $120
- Milspec charging handle - $15
- Complete PSA lower with CTR stock - $170
Total for Rifle = 1175
- MBUS Pro set sights - $180
- Surefire M640DF light - $240
- Aimpoint PRO red dot- $400
- BFG Vickers Sling - $70
- 1x Magpul QD swivels for sling - $15
- DD QD socket+QD swivel - $50
Total Complete = $2130
HIGH TIER
MLOK option:
- BCM 16" BFH ELW MCMR Mid Length gas upper, free included A2 flash hider - $780
- BCG - FREE! (at time of writing)
- PRI gasbuster combat latch charging handle - $89
- Centurion CM4 lower - $120
- MBT-2s trigger - $100
- CMMG lower parts kit (No FCG/Grip) - $30
- Milspec trigger guard - $10
- A2 Grip - $4
- H1 Buffer kit - $70
- B5 SOPMOD enhanced stock - $68
Total for Rifle $1271
- MBUS Pro set sights- $180
- Surefire M640DF light- $240
- Aimpoint T2 and mount red dot - $850
- BFG Vickers Sling - $70
- 2x Magpul QD swivels for sling - $30
Total Complete = $2641
Quadrail option:
- DD M4a1 SOCOM upper from Brownells - $720
- Surefire SF3P - $150
- Microbest Phosphate BCG - $120
- PRI gasbuster combat latch charging handle - $89
- Centurion CM4 lower - $120
- MBT-2s trigger - $100
- CMMG Lower parts kit (No FCG/Grip) - $30
- Milspec trigger guard - $10
- A2 Grip - $4
- H2 Buffer kit - $75
- B5 SOPMOD enhanced stock - $68
Total for rifle = $1,486
- MBUS Pro set sights - $180
- Surefire M640DF light - $240
- Aimpoint T2 and mount - $850
- BFG Vickers Sling - $70
- 1x Magpul QD swivels for sling - $15
- DD QD socket+swivel - $50
Total Complete = $2891
GUCCI TIER
- KAC SR-15 upper ?????
- KAC SR-15 lower ???????????????
- Aimpoint T2 and mount - $850
- BFG Vickers Sling - $70
- 1x Magpul QD swivels for sling - $15
- DD QD socket+swivel - $50
price = don't worry about it
Upper Receivers
If you're on a limited budget, most of it should be put towards your upper. The upper houses all of the pressure bearing components. Everything that affects the physical precision of the rifle as well as the vast majority of its reliability is contained within the upper. You can get more out of your budget by building your own upper, but it does take more tools and generally more care than putting together a lower. For this reason it is recommended that beginners buy a complete or mostly complete upper, and tackle building a lower first. For most users I recommend an upper with a 4150 steel barrel that is cold hammer forged and chrome lined. It needs to have a BCG that is of good quality, a rail that suits your needs, a gas system that is not horrendous to shoot, and a flash hider rather than a brake or compensator.
Recommended Complete Upper Brands and why
KAC SR-15
This is the top tier option. A quality free float rail with a very strong locking mechanism. A modern profile barrel that is cold hammer forged and chrome lined. Comes with the proprietary E3 bolt that boasts increased bolt lifespan thanks to its modified, oversized rounded lugs. Has improved extraction power thanks to the "lobster tail" double spring extractor. New models have dual ejectors, which I guess is nice but I've never seen a problem with AR-15 ejectors that would be solved by adding more. Bolt carrier has a modified cam pin that is designed to prevent breakage at the bolt stem. Has gas systems tuned to whatever barrel length you buy, ensuring the gun is reliable and properly gassed. As an added bonus, comes with iron sights. This upper addresses most of the common AR-15 failure points and solves them. Many of the parts are not compatible with a standard AR15.
beginner pick: 14.5" (pinned and welded) or 16" SR-15 upper
LMT
Another high tier option with optional proprietary features. The biggest and most obvious of which is the monolithic upper. The rail and receiver are one solid piece. This means it is heavy, but very sturdy and a secure platform for optics or other zeroed accessories like lasers. Offers piston setups. No cold hammer forged barrels available. Optional enhanced bolt carrier group is similar to KAC BCG in many ways, but unlike the KAC BCG, it is compatible with standard AR-15s. Bolt has relief cuts added to the lugs to prevent shearing. Uses a similar extractor to the KAC, with two springs. Boasts greatly improved lifespan over tradition AR-15 BCGs. Heavy.
beginner pick: 16" DI MRP with enhanced BCG
Daniel Defense
The best standard AR-15 you can get. No proprietary bits and pieces, everything is vanilla AR-15 but made with the best quality control you can get and a good cold hammer forged barrel and a BCG known for reliability and longevity. Sometimes overgassed. Generally uses government profiles, which are not preferred. Does offer lightweight and heavy weight barrels, and a SOCOM profile on the Block II/DDM4a1 SOCOM upper from Brownells. Known for their legendary quality quad rails. For best bang for your buck highly recommend buying the Brownells upper and completing it with a surefire flashider (or flash hider for your suppressor). This upper has a 14.5" barrel and will need to have the flash hider pinned and welded, or the lower registered as an SBR in order to comply with the law.
Beginner pick: 14.5" Block II upper from Brownells, if you aren't ok with building it, just take it and your muzzle device to a gunsmith to assemble, pin, and weld
Alternative pick: DDM4V7, possibly the lightweight barrel variant. Pick this over the Block II if you need a light weight rifle.
BCM
The bottom of high tier and the top of middle tier. Offers cold hammer forged chrome lined barrels, good quality rails, high quality BCGs, and decent modern barrel profiles.
beginner pick: 14.5" or 16" CHF ELW MCMR with SF3P muzzle device
Soft recommend:
PSA
Offers many uppers with FN CHF barrels at lower prices. Sometimes has QC issues. Barrels are known to have unfinished/improprly finished chambers that can cause stuck cases especially when shooting suppressed or without regular cleaning. Generally, you should save up and buy something else if at all possible.
beginner pick: whatever is cheap and cold hammer forged
Barrels
In general most people will be best off with a Cold hammer forged chrome lined barrel in 4150 steel with a non-government profile.
why 4150/isn't stainless more accurate
While stainless barrels can achieve the greatest theoretical accuracy, most will not. The average stainless barrel is not more accurate than the average 4150 barrel. It is however always going to be less durable. Stainless steel barrels will become shot out faster than 4150 steel barrels, especially with rapid firing schedules. Even in the niche cases where you have an exceptionally well made cut rifled stainless barrel, the accuracy benefit in a 5.56 AR-15 is questionable. 5.56 is simply not a suitable long range cartridge, and that's where the differences between 1 MOA and .25 MOA matter.
Why CHF
Cold hammer forging provides the most durable barrels with the greatest longevity, and with proper quality control, sub-MOA accuracy
why chrome lined/aren't linings less accurate
Much like the stainless issue, this is theoretically true but in practice is not. It all comes down to quality control. Criterion is well known for putting out chrome lined barrels that are vastly more accurate than the majority of stainless unlined barrels. And once again, a chrome lined barrel will have superior durability.
What's wrong with the government profile
The government profile barrel was invented to solve a problem that never existed. The US military attempted to solve an issue with bending barrels they discovered when barrel gauges kept getting stuck at the gas block. They theorized adding more weight to the gas block area would prevent warping. It was later discovered the problem was the barrels weren't warping/bending at all, but there was jacket buildup forming due to burrs at the gas port hole. By the time this was discovered, it was too late and the government profile barrel was born. Thanks to putting all its weight so far forward, it has the maximum impact on handling and felt weight, and minimal effectiveness at managing heat buildup.
what about carbon fiber wrapped barrels
Composite barrels on a semi-auto rifle is asking for trouble. They always have problems with durability, and the weight savings are not worth it on a bench gun you're not carrying anyway, since nobody uses carbon fiber composite barrels for anything else. They generally are however very accurate due to being made by high end companies.
what about twist rates?
Generally not as big a deal as some people make it out to be. Just buy a 1/7 or 1/8 and everything will be ok.
Recommended Barrels
Chrome:
Daniel Defense
Quality cold hammer forged barrels known for their accuracy. Mostly government profile, but heavy profile (S2W) and lightweight options exist. Cannot buy SOCOM profile barrel separately.
Criterion
Quality chrome lined barrels, not cold hammer forged. Exceptional accuracy.
BCM
Good cold hammer forged barrels. Get a BFH ELW barrel.
Centurion
Offers FN made CHF barrels, good stuff
Nitride:
Criterion
It's even more accurate, which if it matters to you is nice
Stainless:
Bartlein, Krieger, Rock Creek, whatever
Cut stainless autism barrel that is more accurate than you
LaRue
Significantly cheaper than the above option and competitively accurate
Ballistic Advantage
Does pretty well and isn't too expensive
Muzzle devices
In general most people will be best off with a 3 prong flash hider, ideally that is a suppressor mount for their suppressor.
why 3 prong
Because it hides flash the best
why not a brake
Brakes are great at controlling recoil, which isn't really a problem for 5.56. What they will do is be way louder and more concussive than a flash hider. Can be good as a dedicated suppressor host to extend can life.
what about a comp
Comps compensate for muzzle rise when shooting by forcing the gun down. Just like with brakes, that's not something necessary on an AR-15 and it generates lots of excess concussion and noise.
Recommended muzzle devices
whatever fits your suppressor
if you're not sure what to get, surefire 3 prong or A2 birdcage is the answer
Bolt carrier groups
In general most people will be best off with a milspec phosphate BCG
why phosphate
It's cheap, does the job, and holds oil to its surface well. It takes slightly longer to clean than slicker bolt coatings.
but it takes so long to clean and I hate scraping all the junk off the rear of the bolt stem
So stop doing that, it'll be fine I promise. Nothing in your ammunition is corrosive and nothing back there will stop the rifle from functioning.
why not chrome
Chrome is totally fine but of marginal benefit. If you want to save some time cleaning, go for it.
what is wrong with Nickel Boron (NiB)
NiB was a first generation alternative coating that was used experimentally by Colt, and now used by many brands. It's often found in lower end parts and has issues with flaking, and the coating reacting over time and darkening. Overall it provides no improvement over chrome and has potential down sides
what is wrong with nitride
Because nitride is a treatment to the steel itself applied at a high temperature rather than a traditional coating, it can cause issues with the heat treatment of parts. It is also generally done by lower end brands with inferior quality control. It can be fine, but is better avoided.
what is wrong with DLC/TiN/NP3
Nothing, but they still fail to provide any tangible improvement over chrome
are proprietary BCGs (KAC/LMT) worth it
In general I would say if you have to ask, no. You probably will never shoot enough to run into the problems they are meant to address. They do provide tangible benefits, but at significantly increased cost.
what about lightweight BCGs
Generally just a thing for sport guns, which is outside the scope of this guide. Can impact reliability and is therefore a liability. Tinker with them on guns you don't need to trust your life to.
full auto vs semi-auto
A full auto BCG won't make your gun a machinegun, and is simply a standard bolt carrier group. Semi-auto BCGs are modified to prevent their use with an auto-sear, which alters their weight slightly compared to a standard BCG. Generally, semi-auto BCGs have fallen out of style and most you find will be full auto.
What if I want to learn more?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aSna_7ARBo Here's a video on BCG coatings, the rest of the channel is also worth browsing for a wide variety of information.
Recommended bolt carrier groups
Microbest phosphate BCG
Microbest chrome BCG with phosphate extractor (find it at PSA)
There's no reason to spend more, there's no reason to spend less.
Charging handles
There's nothing wrong with a milspec charging handle, but an extended latch or ambidextrous charging handle is a nice quality of life improvement. At the prices most command, it's not worth it unless the rest of your rifle is squared away.
do SD/gas busting charging handles work
The short answer is no. They do nothing or next to nothing. Some that integrate rubber gaskets work, but are prone to failure.
So how do I stop this thing from spewing gas at me
RTV mod is the only reliable way. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vfo09GEcqA
Recommended charging handles
PRI Gasbuster with combat latch
Radian Raptor
Milspec
Rails
Ideally you should have a freefloated rail of good quality using either picatinny or mlok. Quadrails have soul, but you're going to carry that weight, so keep it in mind when choosing between it and mlok. You want it to be long enough to hold all your accessories and be comfortable to hold. When getting an Mlok rail it should always have full length picatinny as the top rail.
What is free floating and why
free floated handguards do not touch or interfere with the barrel, which improves accuracy
What's wrong with keymod
it's just mlok but worse. At this point it's an outdated standard, the military went with mlok because it was found to be more reliable, so keymod is essentially over. If you already have a rifle with keymod rails, it's no the end of the world. Just don't go out of your way to buy a new keymod rail.
Quadrails look better
They sure do.
What about this proprietary thing from troy/whoever
Just don't do it it's not worth it
What about carbon fiber
Negligible weight savings at the cost of being totally unreliable as a mounting platform. Avoid.
what about plastic
Ok if you don't have the budget for more, if you're using a rifle with plastic handguards you probably don't have a laser to mount and NODs to use it with anyway. You can add some drop in freefloat handguards to your AR without removing the castle nut or sometimes even delta ring. If you find yourself needing a freefloat rail and can't modify your AR significantly, look into the DD omega rail.
Recommended Rails
Quads:
KAC FF RAS
LaRue
Daniel Defense RIS II
BCM QRF
Centurion C4
Mlok:
KAC URX4
BCM MCMR
Mega Wedgelock
Gas Systems
In general, if using a 14.5-16" barrel as suggested in this guide, you will be best off with a mid length gas system. Most barrels in this length are available in carbine length gas systems, this should be avoided when possible.
Why not carbine length gas?
During military testing it was found mid length is significantly more reliable with these barrel lengths, in all conditions. It is also going to be less overgassed. https://partner-mco-archive.s3.amazonaws.com/client_files/1527866983.pdf
Why not rifle length gas?
While you can have a longer gas system and a theoretically softer recoil impulse, you will severely compromise reliability to reduce the already nonexistent recoil of 5.56. Not worth it with these barrel lengths.
what about other barrel lengths
In general there is less room to mess up. If you get a short barrel it's generally going to be carbine no matter what and a longer barrel is going to be rifle length. In niche cases this may not be the case, such as barrels designed for dedicated suppressor use.
what's wrong with adjustable gas blocks
They contain numerous small parts that are prone to binding up and potentially compromise reliability. It is best to address your gassing with the barrel, rather than the gas block where possible.
do gas tube coatings matter
Not even slightly
what gas block do I get
Just buy the one your barrel manufacturer sells. Ideally a gas block should be pinned and not just screwed into place.
Lower receivers
The lower receiver houses the trigger, buffer system, and magazine. In general most people will be best off with a standard milspec lower receiver.
forged vs milled
There are theoretical differences in strength and weight, but they are so inconsequential it's not worth considering. In reality, it's about aesthetics. Just go forged.
what about the Aero m4e1/I'm scared of rollpins
Don't be. Roll pins are easy to install and more secure than the tiny set screws used to secure componenets on lowers that don't use them. A punch/starter set isn't very expensive, and if you can't be bothered, there's nothing wrong with buying a complete lower.
what about ambidextrous lowers
They generally offer only marginal benefit even to left handed shooters, at greatly inflated prices. Many of the parts can be added without modifying the receiver itself as well, such as ambidextrous safeties and mag releases. If you have the money, there's nothing wrong with going ambidextrous but it is a good idea to become proficient with a standard lower.
what about the BAD lever
It's bad. Poses an negligent discharge risk for little to no benefit. When inserting a mag your hand is already in position to press the bolt release. If your gun experiences so many malfunctions that right handed bolt manipulation is a constant situation on your mind, there are bigger problems at play.
what about polymer lowers
They exist to solve a problem that does not exist by introducing new problems with durability, part compatibility, and features. Avoid. The weight savings is entirely negligible.
high shelf, low shelf, m16 cut
These distinctions indicate how the AR-15 lower is cut and whether steps were made to prevent you from installing an autosear. In general, there is no real need to worry about this, but at the same time no reason not to get the proper M16 cut. If you have a DIAS you already know what you need by now.
blemished lowers
Most cosmetic blemishes are nearly unnoticeable and buying a blem lower can provide some savings at no cost to reliability. A good choice on a budget.
Recommended complete lowers
Lowers are generally inflated in price greatly when sold complete, and do not have improved or high quality components to justify the cost. For this reason it is recommended to simply buy a cheap lower and build it with high quality components you choose to suit your needs. But if you won't, simply pick up a complete Aero or PSA lower on sale, or buy a complete rifle from one of the recommended upper manufacturers and eat the price markup.
Recommended stripped lowers
Generally any lower that is in spec is just as good as any other in spec lower. When you pay more, it is one of the few times you truly are just paying for a rollmark. With that in mind, buy the rollmark you like.
M16 Cut Recommendations:
DSA ZM4
Centurion CM4
Ambi Recommendation
LMT MARS-L
Other Recommendations:
PSA
Anderson
Triggers
A good trigger can dramatically improve your performance with a rifle. The rifle is always going to be more accurate than the human using it, but a good trigger takes out some of that human error. It is crucial that your trigger be reliable and dependable, or your gun is useless. Most people will be best served with a quality two stage trigger.
what about cassette/drop in triggers
These generally are lower power and less reliable than more standard triggers. They are ok for guns used exclusively for sport, but not recommended for any rifle you depend on.
why isn't Geissele here
They cost significantly more than an MBT-2s while being less consistent and less durable. There is simply no reason to buy them.
what about binary triggers
Binary triggers are best treated as a toy and not something to depend on.
single stage vs two stage
In practical use there is no real advantage to speed or accuracy with a single stage trigger. The two stage trigger allows a very light break without compromising safety or reliability.
is mil spec good enough
Yes, if you can't shoot with a basic milspec trigger you simply can't shoot.
Recommended triggers
Billet tool steel:
MBT-2s
Shootingsight RPS trigger
Cast:
Schmid two stage (sold by various brands as their own, such as PSA, Centurion, Aero two stage)
Milspec. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Furniture
Furniture choice is mostly based on user preference. Ergonomics is a personal issue with no universal answers. A stock can be high quality and well made, and simply not work for you. Try to hold some ARs at a gunstore and see what you like.
Grips
In general you should just buy an A2 grip and learn to love it. If you can't, buy one that does what you want. After using the A2 grip, you should have figured out what that is.
but I thought the A2 grip was bad
The A2 grip is cheap, dependable, guides your hand to the correct position, and the nub provides additional support for manipulating the rifle with one hand. Many users attempt to grip the rifle higher up, like it is a pistol. The A2 nub is uncomfortable when doing this, because the hand is in the wrong spot. You do not need to have a high grip to control muzzle flip on an AR-15. It is not a handgun.
what about rubberized furniture
Rubberized furniture is very annoying on stocks if you have facial hair, and while grippy when dry, becomes excessively slippery with the introduction of any oils. Textured plastic is cheaper generally and more reliable.
but I really hate the A2 nub
BCM, Magpul, B5, try these
Stocks
You just need a stock that's comfortable for you and not made of cheap airsoft plastic that will explode when you tap it on the ground.
what about stock storage
Really not that useful. The sopmod stock is more useful for its comfort than its storage. Consider having batteries elsewhere on your kit, or even simply in your car or home. If you absolutely must have a dozen CR123s on your rifle, this guide probably isn't for you.
what about thumbhole stocks
Just don't. They are all poorly made and they don't look as cool as you think.
isn't the B5 sopmod a knockoff?
No. Both it and the LMT stock were chosen for the sopmod stock contract. The B5 has nicer features like rotation limited QD sockets and doesn't cost $200 because of brand tax.
what about the magpul/LMT marksman style stocks
A lot of weight and bulk that is simply unnecessary on the AR-15. Your gun already has adjustable length of pull and a cheek riser probably isn't needed for a magnified optic on an AR-15.
Recommended Grip
A2
Recommended stocks
B5 Sopmod Enhanced
B5 CAR15+John Mason recoil pad
Magpul CTR
Recommended Trigger Guards
Milspec
If you waste a bunch of money on a trigger guard you're a clown. Put the milspec or magpul trigger guard in and quit thinking about it.
Buffer Tubes
In general, most users will be best served simply getting a basic carbine buffer tube.
milspec vs commercial
Almost every buffer tube on the market and the furniture for them is milspec. If something is marked commercial don't buy it, it's that simple.
A5 buffer tubes/BCM MK2
These are in between the rifle and carbine buffer system in length, and use rifle length springs and their own specific buffers. Overall these provide benefit to people tuning full auto and suppressed guns. They might offer a smoother shooting experience even for normal shooting, but on a 5.56 rifle are not really necessary. Consider it a low priority improvement if you have money left over and other priorities are squared away.
What about rifle length?
Unless you're cloning an M16 just don't.
What about pistol buffer tubes?
Just get a carbine buffer tube instead.
What about endplates? QD? Ratcheting?
QD endplates don't hurt anything but don't help anything. You should be attaching your sling to your stock instead. Ratcheting castlenut endplates simply do not work properly. Torque your castle nut properly and stake. You can do it.
Recommended Buffer Tubes
BCM, or whatever is cheap and made of 7075 aluminum
BCM MK2, or VLTOR A5
Buffers
Carbine, H1, H2, H3? What does it mean?
The buffer tube has steel and tungsten weights in it. A buffer with no tungsten weights and all steel is a carbine buffer. H1 has one tungsten weight. H2 has two, etc.
Which should I get?
The answer is almost never carbine weight. Go straight to H1 and it will work acceptably for most use unsuppressed, semi-auto. For carbine gas, go for H2.
What about hydraulic buffers?
A solution in search of a problem. Extra cost for extra failure points. Avoid.
Recommended Buffers
BCM H1 or H2, or whatever was bundled with your buffer tube
BCM MK2 or VLTOR A5 if using BCM MK2 or VLTOR A5 buffer tube only!
Springs
Braided?
Braided springs cost more and don't really work any better. Avoid.
Flat wire?
Flat wire springs can offer increased power and longevity and might be worth it if building your rifle from the ground up. Not worth replacing a standard spring with flat wire unless you are having problems. Useful in suppressed or full auto guns.
Recommended Springs
BCM carbine spring, or whatever was bundled with your buffer tube.
Tubbs flatwire spring, works in BCM MK2/A5, rifle, or carbine buffer tubes
Bexar flatwire spring
Optics
Optics provide serious benefits over iron sights and greatly increase your effectiveness. Any rifle you intend to use should have an optic. It is important to have a good quality mount. If your mount can't hold zero, the optic is useless. A quick disconnect LaRue mount (LT660 for Aimpoint T2 or Holosun 403r LT799 for ACOG, LT105 for PA SLx 3x, LT204 for LPVO/MPVO) is a solid and reliable choice. If your battery dies, your optic is damaged, or any other failure occurs, being able to quickly remove the optic and use your iron sights is essential. If your budget can't accommodate a QD mount yet, be sure to keep a multitool, hex/allen key, bit driver, or other tool handy to remove the optic. This is a lesser concern when using a red dot if you can see your iron sights through the optic.
Red dots
Red dots are the standard and mostly widely used 1x magnification optics. Your first rifle should probably have a red dot.
Are red dots durable/reliable?
Red dots are incredibly durable and battle proven. Aimpoints have seen military use for several decades now and have a stellar track record.
Why a red dot over iron sights?
Thanks to having little to no parallax and unlimited eye relief, any angle you look at a red dot through is correct. What this means is you do not need perfect sight alignment or to get your head directly behind the sight to make hits. The illuminated reticle is faster to pick up than iron sights and easier to use in the dark or against dark backgrounds. It cannot be misaligned and you can't accidentally be aiming with a protective wing instead of the sight post. It is always as simple as point and shoot.
I've heard astigmatism causes problems with red dots, is this true?
Astigmatism causes the dot to bloom out. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give blanket statements about this phenomenon as everyone's eyes are different. Most people with astigmatism can still use red dots, and bloom will mostly be a problem indoors. It can be mitigated by lowering brightness. Some dots are worse for astigmatism than others, and some people's eyes are ok with one brand and not another. The only solution is to look through them and see what works for you.
Why not a holographic?
Holographic optics are heavier, more prone to failure, more complex, have worse battery life, and offer few if any advantages over red dots.
Why not a 1x prism?
In general they are red dot sights but worse. They have all of the downsides of traditional scopes, such as suffering from eye relief and parallax, but without any magnification to make up for it.
Are circle dots worth it?
This is up to user preference. In general, I recommend a simple dot only.
Why aimpoint?
Quite simply, a quality red dot is something you only have to buy once. Aimpoint makes the top quality red dots. Red dots are among the cheapest of all optics. $700 is a lot for a red dot, but not much for an optic in general. It is also something that will likely last your entire lifetime. There are Aimpoints made in the 70s and 80s still working just as well as the day they were made.
Why not solar
It provides no user benefit. Quality red dots already last multiple years on a single battery.
Why not shake awake
It provides no user benefit. It marginally increases battery life which is already a non-problem, but introduces a failure point that can prevent the optic from turning on.
What is the difference between a reflex sight and a red dot sight
There isn't one. Red dot sights are all reflex sights. The open ones called reflex sights in videogames simply have unenclosed housings
Why use an enclosed housing?
It prevents debris from blocking the red dot emitter.
Doesn't a larger window give greater field of view?
No. It gives greater field of view through the optic, but you should not be tunnel-visioning into only your housing. Look around it at the same time to maintain situational awareness. When you do this, window size ceases to matter.
Why not green or gold dots
The mumbo jumbo about your eye seeing green faster is frankly bullshit. Red stands out better in the real world.
What about magnifiers?
Generally inferior to dedicated prism optics. Still functional. The only good one is the Eotech G33.
Recommended red dot
Aimpoint T2 It's small, it's light, it's durable, it has everything it needs and nothing it doesn't. The ideal red dot sight.
why not AA or AAA optics/The M5/M4
The battery housings are more obtrusive and 2032 batteries are widely available. Using commonly available alkaline batteries is a bad idea in any optic due to their propensity to leak and destroy electronics. This means those optics just take up extra room and sight picture they don't need to.
wouldn't a 7075 or Titanium housing be better?
The failure point of red dots is not the housing, but the electronics or in severe cases glass. If you manage to break the housing before the glass lens, you're a very special boy and can buy whatever you want from now on.
Budget options
Aimpoint PRO It's cheap for an aimpoint, dependable and proven.
if it's so great why isn't it the top pick?
It's larger and heavier than it needs to be, and uses goofy batteries.
Holosun 403r
It is basically a budget T2. Similar dial brightness control, which is much easier to operate under stress than buttons. No gimmicks like solar or shake awake or any wasted features. It will never be as trusted, but on a budget it does the job.
Prism optics
Prism optics are suitable for pushing the AR-15 beyond the range red dots can comfortably be used at.
are prisms outdated compared to LPVOs?
No. Prisms are generally lighter and more durable than LPVOs and can offer superior glass quality for the price and superior field of view. A cheap LPVO is often less usable than a prism sight, even when it has greater magnification, simply due to its inferior visual properties. In general, most prism optics enable the shooter to reach the effective range of a 5.56 carbine.
why a prism over a magnifier
Glass quality and usability are greatly improved. In addition, a prism with a red dot stacked on top is generally lighter than a red dot and magnifier. Magnifiers should be used to extend the capability of a rifle equipped with a red dot. Prisms should exist in a more dedicated role when shooting frequently beyond 100m, though their deficiencies at close range can be mitigated by adding a red dot.
Recommended prism optics
TA31 or TA02, ideally with RMR
The ACOG is likely the most widely fielded and most successful combat optic in all of history. It is durable, it is light, it has great glass for the price, great field of view, and the BDC is easy to use and intuitive.
Why TA31?
It has no electronics and is lighter than the TA02. The fiber optic provides illumination during the day, and tritium at night
What if the tritium burns out?
You can get it replaced by Trijicon for a price. However, it is not entirely necessary as making shots with a magnified optic when it is so dark the tritium is visible is unlikely. You simply won't be able to see the target in the first place.
It's too bright!
A strip of tape over the fiber during will prevent the sun from searing your eyes out. Pussy.
I really need to see my reticle at night even though I can't see my target 200m away in the pitch black
Tape a mini glowstick to the top or a small LED light. It will shine through the fiber optic and work just like during daytime.
Why TA02
LED magnification offers simple user control over brightness with no modification.
why not TA01
This model is tritium only which makes it simply inferior.
Why not other magnifications
Other ACOG models are simply not as optimized. They make serious sacrifices to either weight, field of view, size, or all at once.
why not ACOG/is the eye relief that bad
You have to use an ACOG to understand the ACOG. Yes the eye relief is short. It is worth noting it is not like an LPVO where the optic is simply unusable outside of its eye relief; instead the FOV diminishes the farther away you are from the eyepiece. You can still see through and use the optic significantly farther away than the quoted 1.5" eye relief, just with reduced FOV.
what reticle
Circle dot, crosshair, or chevron. Always in red.
Elcan SpecterDR 1-4
The Elcan much like the ACOG is widely used and trusted. It weighs more than an ACOG, but has slightly superior eye relief and offers multiple magnification settings.
why the 1-4
It offers utility the ACOG cannot in a built in 1x mode. For fast 1x shots, a stacked red dot is still superior than reaching up to switch the optic
Why does it cost so much
Because they know it looks cool and you'll buy it.
why not the 1.5-6x
That would be better suited to a .308 rifle. It also pushes the weight even higher, making it less competitive with other optics. If you really like it, go for it.
is the Elcan or the ACOG better
Both are fantastic optics, the unfortunate reality is you will have to try both in person and shoot with them to know which you prefer.
PA SLx 3x microprism
It is light, cheap, and good enough to get the job done.
LPVOs
Low power variable optics are quickly becoming the default answer for many people. Before just buying one, it is a good idea to consider if it really fits your needs.
Are LPVOs really the end all be all?
No. They do make sacrifices to get their features. They will never have the optical quality of more traditional scopes, and are frequently fairly heavy. The 1x is also inferior to red dots.
Why use an LPVO then?
When you need to extend your magnification beyond what a prism can offer, but also cannot spare the weight and bulk to get a
traditional scope/MPVO
Why FFP
First focal plane allows use of BDCs/accurate holds at all its magnification levels, the reticle remains accurate no matter what magnification you are on. Second focal plane scope BDCs/reticles are only correct at max magnification. This means trying to use holds will require guesswork if you are not at max magnification.
Why SFP
Generally cheaper and with better illumination. In lower magnification scopes, you will generally be at either 1x or max magnification, negating the downsides of a second focal plane.
why not the NX8 1-8, you seem like a whore for nightforce
Despite its on paper fantastic stats, it has a frankly terrible eyebox and is awful to use. Try one and if you like it, good for you buy it.
what mount do I get
LT204, it's generally cheapest from Primary Arms if buying new
what about cheaper LPVOs
Most of the truly good ones are gone. If you can find a used Leupold VXR Patrol or Mark AR 1-4, buy it.
Recommended LPVOs
Nightforce ATACR 1-8
Fantastic glass quality, durability, great reticle, great illumination despite being FFP. And a pricetag to match.
Primary Arms PLxC 1-8
Extremely light for an LPVO, but with good glass quality for the price. The reticle is either love it or hate it with little in between.
Vortex Razor Gen IIe 1-6
Great glass quality and a fantastic warranty. Poortex. No one will think you're cool, because it's not the gen III, despite being a better scope.
Blemished Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6
Get a blemished one from Eurooptic, they always have them. Runs about $500 and is good for the price.
Traditional Scopes and MPVOs
Generally if you want to do longer range shooting than is possible or comfortable with a 4x prism, this is what you should be getting.
My LPVO goes up to 10x, why would I want a bigger, heavier scope with a similar magnification range?
thanks to a larger objective lens, these scopes have greatly improved glass quality and usability. LPVOs at 10x are nearly unusable in contrast.
Does tube size matter
Maybe, start a debate in the thread
why is there so much less written on these
Because by the time I got into proper scopes, I was no longer a poorfag. As a result I never bothered with lower end scopes and went straight to Nightforce, so I have done almost no research on other brands and have limited experience with them. Sorry. Feel free to contribute or screech in the thread.
why the NX8
It is (relatively) light and boasts very wide ranged of magnification. These do have tight eyeboxes towards the top of their magnification range, but much more usable than the LPVO NX8
Recommended Scopes
Trijcon Creedo 2-10
It's relatively cheap and one of the best (and only) options in its class
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20
Lots of magnification and good Japanese glass. Can be found for not too much money as a demo on Eurooptic.
Nightforce ATACR 4-16
It fucks. You don't get to ride for free.
Accessories
The rifle only works if you can use it. A good sling means the rifle cannot be taken from you and the rifle can be carried easily. A good light is absolutely necessary on any rifle meant for self defense.
Lights
A good light is the difference between shooting your waifu after she gained physical form and came to marry you, and saving your life. It is absolute necessary.
spill vs throw
There is a currently a trend of lights maximizing the distance they can throw light, at the expense of the area they flood illuminate. This is less than ideal for a defensive rifle. You will likely never have to use a light at long range, but missing the threat a few feet to the left of you can get you killed.
but I'm hunting coyotes at 200m at night in the fog
Carry on then, do whatever you want.
aren't more concentrated lights more blinding
Yes, and if you are a professional that is something to consider. Otherwise, if someone is threatening you, shoot them rather than get them to squint. It works better. You're already pointing a rifle at them, so hopefully you had a reason to do that.
are switches necessary
This is an ergonomic concern only you can answer. If you are using a switch, get a tailcap that has an activation button built in as well.
Recommended lights
Surefire M640DF
Has the best flood illumination on the market.
Streamlight HLX protac railmount
Ok quality budget light. Use of the tailcap is recommended, as the switch it comes with is prone to failure. Good flood illumination, second best to the Surefire DF lights. Newer Pro variant has a dual port tailcap that allows the use of a switch while retaining an activation button on the tailcap.
Streamlight Protac 2.0 railmount 2000 lumen
Newer offering from Streamlight, no long term data yet but initial reviews are positive. Has the new tailcap design with a port for a remote switch and on/off button integrated as a standard option. It is significantly cheaper than the Surefire equivalent, the DS00 tailcap alone costs nearly as much as this light complete. Uses a new, proprietary rechargeable battery, as a result it is unable to accept CR123 batteries. Backup batteries are going to be expensive and specific to your light, potentially a downside if you feel the need to have them. 2000 lumens is a lot of lumens.
Surefire M300
Suitable for rifles with limited rail space, if you can't manage a full size light consider this
Slings
Without a good sling, Rittenhouse would be dead. There's no more room for argument over whether you need one, you do.
what about single point slings?
When you sling your rifle it will smash directly into your cock and balls. Just don't do it.
what about convertible single point/two point slings?
If you can't get over single point slings, these are a better option. The extra hardware is annoying when not in use, but they work.
are plastic fixtures ok on slings
Yes. They are plenty durable and won't clatter around every time they bump into your AR.
Recommended slings
Blue force gear padded vickers sling
The standard by which all others are judged.
Magpul MS1
A cheaper and still suitable option.
Sights
Every rifle should have iron sights. Even if you're broke. Generally it is best to get a set of steel folding sights.
but modern optics are so reliable-do I really need backup irons?
How valuable is your life? They weigh next to nothing and don't get in the way.
why no aluminum iron sights
They are not more reliable or durable than polymer, and yet cost more. Avoid.
are adjustable elevation rear irons worth it
Not really. Nobody is actually dialing with iron sights. No need to go out of your way to buy them.
what about fixed irons
Get an optic.
Recommended iron sights
KAC
Expensive but quality. Not worth it from a financial sense, but they look right. If you're on a limited budget, spend it anywhere else first, then when everything else is squared away consider these.
MBUS pro
The go to for best quality vs affordability.
MBUS
For when you blew your budget on everything else. At least they're there.
Beamz
Under construction. May be expanded on later. For now just ask A2.
Just buy whatever full power thing you can get and don't point it in a mirror. Visible lasers are cringe.
Cans
Under construction. If you're at the point of buying NFA items hopefully you know what you're doing.
signature reduction
The name of the game with AR-15 suppressors for 5.56 is signature reduction. While sound is part of this and a quieter can is nice, reducing flash and obfuscating your location is the primary purpose. You are never going to be hearing safe, so chasing every last bit of sound reduction is a waste.
Either buy an RC2 or a Saker 556k. In loving memory of the KAC QDC/CQB 5.56. Gone but not forgotten.
Tools
Under construction.
what about a tool for the roll pins that's not punches and a hammer, like those roll pin pushers
be a man
what do I use to support the trigger guard ears when installing a trigger guard
A wooden coaster under the gun on your desk, works every time
Midwest URR
Upper receiver rod, basically the Geissele Reaction rod but not shit. A pricey but rock solid tool. DOES NOT WORK FOR HK416.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/rifle-tools/ar-15-upper-receiver-rod/
Torque wrench
Just buy a cheap one off amazon. Not strictly necessary but fairly cheap and come on, do it right. You should own one of these anyway.
Vise
just buy a cheap one from harbor freight. You can definitely rig it and put together an AR without one. But don't. You should own one of these anyway.
REAL AVIDAccu-Punch Hammer & AR-15 Pin Punch Set
Roll pin punches, hammer, and starter punches. A necessity to build the AR-15 properly.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/accu-punch-hammer--ar-15-pin-punch-set/
Magpul Bevblock - AR15/M4
Functions as a vise block, and an action rod to install barrels. Lets you work on the upper and lower. A very useful multipurpose tool. Perhaps not as good as dedicated tools for each individual job, but does them all adequately.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/fixtures-blocks/ar-15-bev-block/
Armorer's wrench
for tightening castle nuts, standard barrel nuts, and flash hiders. Just buy one of the cheap ones on amazon, they work fine.
Pivot pin tool
This tool you don't really need, but makes life easier. Lets you install the pivot pin+detent without launching it into orbit.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/rifle-tools/ar-15-pivot-pin-detent-installation-tool/
Torque screwdriver - FAT wrench w/10 bit set
Fantastic tool for tightening optic mounts correctly.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/fat-wrench-original-edtion/
Arisaka optic Leveler Combo Kit.
Stupid easy to use, no bullshit option to level scopes. No fiddling with bubble levels or other voodoo.
https://www.brownells.com/optics/rings-mounts/scope-mounting-tools/optic-leveler-combo-kit/
Mag Brush, A2 approved
https://tangodown.com/tangodown-mag-brush/
External resources
Ballistic Calculators and other shooting tools
Tools to calculate energy, trajectory, point blank range, and more.
https://shooterscalculator.com/
Ballistic calculator for android, can be matched up to many common reticles. Removed from the google store because of sanctions on Russia.
https://www.strelokpro.online/StrelokPro/android/default.asp
Video guides
Complete guide on how to build an AR-15
https://www.brownells.com/the-trigger-times/how-to/how-to-build-an-ar-15/
How to install a surefire muzzle device. The warcomp is not recommended, but the majority of this info applies to the SF3p as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjA9-VbmrXA
How to build an AR-15 and various other AR-15 information with Larry Potterfield from MidwayUSA
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEA3AB7BBD081C16F
Mrgunsngear: Differences between a full auto and semi-auto AR-15. Video is very informative. Was too based for youtube so they took it down.
https://files.catbox.moe/3r5i3a.mp4
https://web.archive.org/web/20211111161101/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjNwv4xOLgc
School of the American Rifle: AR15 Bolt Carrier Group Coatings & Finishes - Great video on BCG coatings. Entire channel is full of good information.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yfs1Czm8iiE
Small Arms Solutions: Cleaning your AR15; channel has loads of other informative videos on AR-15s, Colt, KAC, and LMT and other AR-15 history
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aSna_7ARBo
Massive archive of video content. Contains the old Magpul Dynamics videos. A must watch.
Diagrams, Manuals, Technical Information
AR15 Manufacturer Gas Port sizes - I think this started on Arfcom originally but might be wrong
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tXunBDX5Gaz87BqxwNxDUlWNK9nEv-cZEQoLq2JXXrk/
AR15 lower receiver dimensions
https://files.catbox.moe/6s54c6.png
TM 05538/10012-IN - USMC M4/M16 Maintenance manual, includes help on troubleshooting
https://info.publicintelligence.net/USMC-M16-MaintenanceManual.pdf
ARMY TM 9-1005-319-10 - US Military M4/M16 Operators manual
NSWC Crane documentation on mid length vs carbine length gas systems on 14.5" barrels
https://partner-mco-archive.s3.amazonaws.com/client_files/1527866983.pdf
SOPMOD program overview
https://ndiastorage.blob.core.usgovcloudapi.net/ndia/2006/smallarms/taylor.pdf
Search Engines and Aggregators
Firearms, parts, optics, accessories search engines, since Google is often unreliable when trying to buy guns
https://gun.deals/
https://www.wikiarms.com/
Search engine for ammunition with tools to filter by price, case material, bullet type, weight, brand, etc.
Recommended retailers
Eurooptic
Good deals on demo optics and a much more reliable experience than opticsplanet
Brownells
The home of the DD Upper. Always check for discount codes because they always have at least one active.
Primary Arms
Retailer for LaRue, generally has the good prices all around. Their optics are generally good for the price. Sells lots of AR parts.
MidwayUSA
Sells some of everything. The former CEO Larry Potterfield has endless videos on firearms that are worth watching as well.
How to reach anon:
Just bitch in the thread that the pastebin sucks. I'll get to it in another three years.
to do list
- Add Vicious's infographics when they're updated
- petition for A2 approval (prospects not looking good due to lack of SBR recommendation and excessive 14.5 suggestion)
- explanation of mil vs moa and other general optics topics
- find video guides on 80%s that don't suck
- babbies first NFA guide
- add more info on light switches, expand on DS00 recommendation, address power output/dimming with surefire switches, maybe discuss surefire vampire lights